Pack a picnic for Riverside Park, just north of the MacArthur Bridge.
Writer: Libby Nichols
Photos courtesy of Greater Burlington Partnership, Iowa DNR and Travel Iowa
Before the riverfront views and winding brick streets came into focus, Burlington had already been telling its story for nearly two centuries. Once the capital of the Iowa Territory, this Mississippi River town grew from a bustling hub of steamboats and trade into a place defined by its hills, history and quiet sense of character.
Today, that history is still visible in the bluff-top homes, downtown storefronts and steep streets that seem to climb and fall with intention. But Burlington isn’t defined by its past alone. It balances history with the easygoing appeal of an evolving river town and an understated retreat. It invites you to slow down and, like the river, go with the flow.
For my family, Burlington has long been more than a destination — our river cabin has been part of our story for three generations. After years of watching this town evolve, these are the stops I’d recommend for a memorable 36 hours.
Friday
Arrive and settle in
For a stay that leans into that sense of place, check into the Snake Alley Inn, a Victorian home on the city’s famous winding street. The house feels woven into the hillside, with the brick curves beginning just outside the doorstep. Inside are three bedrooms and two full baths, balancing historic character with an easy, lived-in charm.
Despite its tucked-away feel, downtown is just a short walk downhill. Jefferson Street, the riverfront and Burlington’s central restaurants and cafés are all within easy reach, making it simple to explore without a car.
Built in 1894, Snake Alley was designed to help horses navigate the steep bluff between downtown and the hill above. Rather than creating one direct climb, engineers built a series of five half-curves to ease the ascent. What began as a practical solution became one of Burlington’s signature landmarks.
Snake Alley
A view sets the vibe
Take a short walk to Mosquito Park. Don’t let the name fool you: It offers one of the best views in town, perched atop a bluff overlooking the Mississippi. The river stretches wide below, offering the kind of view that instantly slows your pace.
Dinner at a local institution
Ease into the weekend at The Drake Restaurant, housed in a century-old building near the river. The menu is upscale without feeling formal, serving American fare and generous portions in a space that’s both historic and welcoming.
A large patio overlooks the river and bridge, making it one of the best seats in town as daylight fades. Ask around and you may hear stories of a resident ghost said to haunt the old building.
Night at the Capitol
After dinner, head downtown to the Capitol Theater for a show. Carefully restored, the ornate theater retains its early-20th-century elegance while hosting comedy, live music and touring acts. The intimate setting makes every seat feel close to the stage.
Speakeasy finish
When the show ends, don’t rush out. Tucked inside the Capitol is the Night Cap Listening Lounge & Bar, a speakeasy with low lighting, jazz and thoughtfully crafted cocktails. On any given night, you might catch a vinyl DJ, jazz trio, comedian or another reason to stay up a little later.
Saturday
Coffee to go
Start the day at The Beancounter Coffeehouse, a relaxed, welcoming spot where mornings unfold at an easy pace. The coffee is great, but the quiche is even better.
After breakfast, take your coffee to Riverside Park and follow the riverfront path toward the Port of Burlington Welcome Center. A small exhibit explains the city’s connection to the Mississippi, while the gift shop offers locally inspired souvenirs. Barges pass in the distance, a reminder that the river is still working, still moving and still central to the life here.
Sidewalk stroll
Head uphill to Jefferson Street, where downtown offers a mix of independent shops, vintage finds and locally owned boutiques. It isn’t overly polished or curated, which is part of its charm. Some favorites include The Nature Corner for organic and natural products, Original Cyns for trendy clothing and Burlington Vintage & Co. for one-of-a-kind finds.
If you need to refuel, stop at Corked 101. With seasonal sangrias and thoughtfully curated charcuterie boards, it’s an inviting place to pause before continuing your afternoon.
Lunch at “The Som”
Despite its former name as the Sombrero Restaurant, The Som isn’t a Mexican restaurant. It’s a longtime burger institution, arguably the best in town. The menu is straightforward and the atmosphere familiar. Why change what already works?
Choose your own escape
By afternoon, it’s easy to venture beyond downtown.
For a nature break, head to Geode State Park, named for Iowa’s state rock. Wooded trails wind through quiet hillsides, and a peaceful lake reflects the surrounding landscape. It’s an easy place to hike and recharge.
Geode State Park
Otherwise, head to Spirit Hollow Golf Course, one of Iowa’s best-regarded public courses. Just outside the city, the rolling terrain and manicured fairways give it the feel of a resort.
Spirit Hollow Golf Course
Dinner on the river
As the sun sets, head to Martini’s Grille. Perched high above the Mississippi, it delivers one of the city’s most sweeping views of the river and the iconic Great River Bridge. The menu feels polished without being fussy. The shareable “grazing experience” is ideal for groups, while plenty of entrées suit a date night.
Martini’s Grille
A smoked finish
After dinner, return downtown for one last stop at La Bohème, a chic lounge with a retro speakeasy vibe. Intimate seating, warm lighting and a relaxed atmosphere make it an ideal place to end the night.
Known for its top-shelf whiskeys and expertly crafted cocktails, the bar serves signatures like smoked Old Fashioneds and Lavender Lemon Drops. Drinks often arrive with a touch of theater, with smoke curling through the glass before the first sip.
Sunday
A Midwest goodbye
Before hitting the road, stop at Wingert Bakehaus, which specializes in sourdough goodies. With long-fermented dough, the bakers turn out breads, pastries, pizza and assorted doughnuts, which are perfect for the drive home — if they even last that long.
Photo courtesy of Wingert Bakehaus
Last-minute adventure
Make one final stop at Starr’s Cave Park and Preserve before you hit the road for home. It’s an easy detour and a good place to walk off breakfast. Well-marked trails wind through wooded terrain, limestone outcroppings and wooden bridges.
You’ll also spot the gated entrance to the park’s namesake cave. It’s closed to protect the bats, but the surrounding trails offer plenty to explore above ground, an easy adventure to close out the weekend.
Starr’s Cave Park and Preserve
Libby Nichols is the creator and founder of Meet DSM, an Instagram account dedicated to showcasing Des Moines. She also writes about local businesses and events for dsm magazine.
Show Comments (0)